Gravel & Bikepacking in San Juan County

San Juan County, New Mexico holds an abundant inventory of gravel roads — hundreds of miles of maintained dirt and gravel surfaces that wind through hoodoo fields, past natural stone arches, over fossil-rich badlands, and along desert mesas that see almost no traffic. For gravel cyclists and bikepackers, this is one of the most compelling and least-discovered riding landscapes on the Colorado Plateau. Farmington, at the center of it all, is the natural base camp.

The San Juan County Gravel Adventure Field Guide

The idea of a San Juan County Gravel Adventure Field Guide has been gaining traction among the regional cycling community, and for good reason. The network of BLM roads, county maintained gravel, and oil-field access roads south and west of Farmington creates a web of rideable routes through terrain that looks like it belongs on another planet. Eroded hoodoos stand like sentinels above grey and tan badlands. Petrified logs, some three feet in diameter, lie exposed in dry washes. Sandstone arches frame the sky over empty canyons. And through all of it, gravel roads — some graded smooth, others washboarded and sandy — offer routes that can be linked into loops of 30 miles or 130 miles.

What makes this area special for gravel riding is the combination of surreal geology, complete solitude, and accessibility from a full-service town. From Sundowner Mobile Home & RV Park at 219 Airport Dr in Farmington, you can drive 20-35 miles to reach the start of routes that will put you hours from the nearest pavement. Or, for strong riders, you can pedal directly from town into the gravel network.

Five Gravel Routes from Farmington

1. Bisti Badlands Loop — 65 Miles

Head south from Farmington on NM-371 for about 30 miles, then turn east onto BLM Road 7297 toward the Bisti/De-Na-Zin Wilderness boundary. This route loops through some of the most otherworldly terrain in New Mexico: grey clay hoodoos, crumbling spires, and eroded mudstone formations that span 70 million years of geological history. The Bisti Wilderness itself (45,000 acres) is closed to bikes, but the gravel roads surrounding it offer stunning views into the protected area. Expect sandy sections, exposed riding with no shade, and the kind of solitude where you may not see another person for hours. The loop returns to NM-371 via BLM roads north of the wilderness, connecting back to Farmington. Total distance from Sundowner: approximately 65 miles. Carry at least 4 liters of water.

2. Angel Peak Circuit — 40 Miles

Angel Peak Scenic Area is just 20 miles south of Sundowner Park off US-550. A network of BLM gravel roads surrounds the scenic area, looping through the Kutz Canyon drainage with its colorful badlands, deep side canyons, and views of Angel Peak itself — a prominent sandstone formation rising above the eroded landscape. This is a good introductory gravel ride from Farmington: moderate distance, mostly graded roads, and the option to shorten the loop by taking US-550 back north. The Angel Peak campground and overlook make a natural rest stop roughly halfway through the circuit. Elevation ranges from 5,800 to 6,800 feet.

3. Fossil Wash Traverse — 50 Miles

Starting from the De-Na-Zin Wilderness trailhead (approximately 35 miles south of Farmington), this route follows BLM and county gravel roads east through the fossil-rich badlands between Bisti and Lybrook. The terrain is classic San Juan Basin: eroded shale hills, exposed sandstone ledges, dry creek crossings, and scattered petrified wood. The route connects to NM-550 near Counselor before looping back west on additional gravel to the starting point. Navigation requires attention — bring GPS tracks loaded on a device, as intersections are not always signed. This route rewards patient riding through genuinely remote country.

4. Hogback Ridge Gravel — 35 Miles

West of Farmington, the Hogback monocline — a dramatic geological spine visible from US-64 — has gravel roads running along both sides. This shorter route heads west from Sundowner Park on local roads, picks up the gravel south of Waterflow, and follows the eastern flank of the Hogback south before crossing to the western side and returning north. The riding is on county-maintained gravel with moderate washboard sections. Views of Shiprock (the volcanic neck 28 miles west of Sundowner) dominate the western horizon. This is a half-day ride suitable for gravel newcomers who want to experience the landscape without committing to a full-day expedition.

5. Chaco Approach Gravel — 80 Miles

For experienced gravel riders and bikepackers, the approach to Chaco Culture National Historical Park (75 miles from Sundowner) can be done almost entirely on gravel and dirt roads. From NM-371, various BLM roads head east through the Chaco Plateau toward the park boundary. This is a serious all-day or overnight ride through remote desert with no services, no water, and no reliable cell coverage. The reward is arriving at one of the most significant archaeological sites in North America via a route that Ancestral Puebloans would recognize — across the same open landscape they traveled a thousand years ago. This route demands thorough preparation and navigation skills.

Planning a Bikepacking Overnighter

The Bisti and De-Na-Zin Wilderness area and the surrounding BLM lands are ideal for overnight bikepacking trips from Farmington. BLM land throughout the San Juan Basin is open to dispersed camping, meaning you can pitch a tent almost anywhere along the gravel roads outside designated wilderness areas (where bikes are not permitted). A typical two-day trip might look like this:

• Day 1: Depart Sundowner Park mid-morning, ride south on NM-371 and turn onto BLM gravel toward Angel Peak. Reach the Angel Peak overlook area by mid-afternoon (approximately 25 miles of gravel). Set up camp with views of the badlands at sunset.
• Day 2: Continue south and east on BLM roads toward the Bisti Wilderness boundary. Loop around the northern edge of the wilderness, enjoying the hoodoo landscape from the road, and return to NM-371 for the pavement ride back to Farmington. Total day two: approximately 40-50 miles.

Water is the critical limiting factor. There are no reliable water sources on BLM gravel roads in this area. Carry all the water you need — a minimum of 6 liters per person for an overnight trip, more in summer. Cache extra water at your vehicle if you are shuttling to a trailhead.

Leave No Trace

The desert landscapes of San Juan County are fragile. Cryptobiotic soil crusts — the dark, knobby biological soil crusts that stabilize desert surfaces — take decades to form and are destroyed by a single tire track or footprint off-trail. When riding and camping in this country:

• Stay on established roads and trails — never ride off-road through undisturbed desert
• Camp on previously disturbed ground, bare rock, or sandy washes
• Pack out all trash, including food waste and toilet paper
• Use a portable stove rather than building campfires; fires can scar desert surfaces permanently
• Respect wilderness boundaries — bicycles and all mechanized travel are prohibited inside Bisti/De-Na-Zin Wilderness
• Give wildlife space, especially during spring nesting season

Equipment Recommendations

The gravel in San Juan County varies from smooth, packed clay roads to loose sandy double-track. Here is what experienced local riders recommend:

• Tires: 40-50mm gravel tires minimum; wider (50mm+) is better for sandy sections. Tubeless setup strongly recommended — thorns from goathead plants are common near washes.
• Water capacity: Minimum 4 liters for day rides, 6+ liters for overnights. Frame bags, handlebar rolls, or a hydration pack all work.
• Navigation: GPS device or phone with downloaded offline maps (Gaia GPS, Ride with GPS, or similar). Cell service is unreliable south of Farmington.
• Repair kit: Spare tubes, tire plugs, multi-tool, chain link, pump, and tire boot. You are a long way from a bike shop on these roads.
• Sun protection: Sunscreen, arm sleeves, a hat or helmet cover. There is virtually no shade on any of these routes.
• Clothing layers: Desert temperatures can swing 40 degrees F between morning and afternoon. Pack a wind jacket even on warm days.
• Emergency supplies: First aid kit, emergency bivy or space blanket, whistle, headlamp. Let someone at camp know your planned route and return time.

More Riding from Sundowner Park

• Motorcycling & Scenic Drives overview — all routes from Farmington
• Farmington NM Motorcycle Loop — 150-mile paved circuit
• Area Attractions — Chaco Canyon, Mesa Verde, Aztec Ruins, and more
• RV Spaces at Sundowner Park — full-hookup sites with 30/50 AMP